| Author |
Message |
Samuel Price (Sammy)
Member
Username: Sammy
Post Number: 1
Registered: 5-2006
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| Posted on Monday, May 1, 2006 - 9:34 pm: |
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I am currently designing a home made electric go-kart. I've been looking at the pre-assembled wheels (Wheel 10 Inch Split Steel Hub 19mm Bearing) on your site and I need to know the possible ways of secure the wheel onto a powered axel.
Regards Sam |
Admin (Admin)
Board Administrator
Username: Admin
Post Number: 178
Registered: 10-2004
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 2, 2006 - 7:37 pm: |
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Sam,
Our wheels have internal bearings hence the problem if you wish to drive the wheels through the axle. Here are just some of the solutions some customers have used:
1. Welding the wheels on the axle
2. Inserting a dowel pin through the protrusion that houses the bearing through the axle
3. Attaching a bracket that slides down and is pinned to the axle like used on M2 (see first pic)
4. Cutting off the bearing protrusions and attaching direct to a flange welded to the axle (we used this on M2XT and works very well)
5. Attach the drive gear or sprocket direct to the wheel rather than the axle
Hope that gives you some ideas. |
Samuel Price (Sammy)
Member
Username: Sammy
Post Number: 2
Registered: 5-2006
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 2, 2006 - 10:19 pm: |
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Thankyou very much for the info, that has definately got me started! I'm going to go with option 3 there.
I am just wondering where I can source spare tyres and innertubes from for the wheels I mentioned earlier or the ones in the pic. Also the plate that goes onto the wheel hub is custom made I'm guessing using a plate a piece of short piping welded onto the plate?
Regards Sam |
Samuel Price (Sammy)
Member
Username: Sammy
Post Number: 3
Registered: 5-2006
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 2, 2006 - 10:46 pm: |
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One more question to add what diameter is the pin that runs through the axle?
Thanks in advance, Sam |
Admin (Admin)
Board Administrator
Username: Admin
Post Number: 181
Registered: 10-2004
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| Posted on Saturday, May 6, 2006 - 12:12 pm: |
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Sam,
The pin was 6mm diameter. Choose the pin material with care, too hard a material can shear under sudden shock loads. To stop the pin from coming out, the ends were drilled and split pins used.
The bracket was made as you described. With the low cost of the complete wheel assembly, there is no market for us to supply the tube and tyre on their own.
Regards
Paul |
Samuel Price (Sammy)
Member
Username: Sammy
Post Number: 4
Registered: 5-2006
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| Posted on Saturday, May 6, 2006 - 10:57 pm: |
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Thanks for the info,
Im just wondering with the 5/8 bearings (that would be 15.875mm ish) should i be looking for a 15mm axle shaft and then get 5/8 bearing to hold the axle.
Also what material was that pin, im guessing it was steel or something like that, how particular do i need to be with choosing that part because i've seen on some sites they sell pins separatly.
Thanks very much,
Sam |
Admin (Admin)
Board Administrator
Username: Admin
Post Number: 182
Registered: 10-2004
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| Posted on Sunday, May 7, 2006 - 9:38 am: |
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Sam,
A 15mm shaft / axle for the 5/8 bearings would not be satisfactory as the play would be too great. If you have access to a lathe, turn down a 17mm shaft to the 5/8 just over the distance where it goes into the wheel. This gives a shoulder for the wheel which prevents movement in one direction and the simply stops the wheel from coming off. Using 17mm also means you can use our standard range of pressed steel and cast bearings for the axles.
You are not likely to see the same stresses on the pins as found on heavyweight robots where the wheels can go from full forwards to full reverse in under 0.3 second. If you have adjustable ramp times on your motor speed controller and these are set to a few seconds, then you will almost certainly get away with standard or taper pins. Otherwise a good material to use is an old hex key (difficult to drill for the split pins but possible). Another good idea is to use a high tensile steel bolt (not a set screw) with a nyloc not. Make sure the bolt has enough plain shank to go all the way through so that the thread is outside of the hole. |
Samuel Price (Sammy)
Member
Username: Sammy
Post Number: 5
Registered: 5-2006
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| Posted on Sunday, May 7, 2006 - 7:05 pm: |
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Thanks very much again, I went to my local metal supplier and they actually had 5/8 shaft, I also found 5/8 bearings too.
With the "Wheel 10 Inch Split Steel Hub 5/8 Inch Bearing Not Offset" do you have any more dimensions for the hub, bolt spacing and size, etc?
Regards Sam |
Admin (Admin)
Board Administrator
Username: Admin
Post Number: 184
Registered: 10-2004
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| Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 7:42 pm: |
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Sam,
Sorry but these particular dimensions are not published. Are these critical to your application? |
Samuel Price (Sammy)
Member
Username: Sammy
Post Number: 6
Registered: 5-2006
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| Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 8:04 pm: |
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Well I want to use the idea in the picture above with the plate mounted onto the front of the wheel. This means I need to know the inside hub diameter and the bolt spacing to design the assembly.
Do you have the dimensions for the plate thats mounted on the wheel in that picture?
Thanks
Sam |
Admin (Admin)
Board Administrator
Username: Admin
Post Number: 185
Registered: 10-2004
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| Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 9:44 pm: |
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Sam,
I have just measured a wheel I had lying around and it has a PCD of 70mm with 4 off M8 fixings at 90 Deg intervals.
I have just realised that method 4 I described above is not the latest method I use on M2XT. In fact I now use a keyed method which was made in the garage using some 6mm steel plate, a welded boss and some filing to make the keyway - pic below which is a strong solution and makes wheel changes very quick.
Paul
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Samuel Price (Sammy)
Member
Username: Sammy
Post Number: 7
Registered: 5-2006
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| Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 10:02 pm: |
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Thanks very much for the support
I appreciated the fact you are giving me this information! It has helped a lot!
I'll keep you posted maybe with my project
Regards Sam |
Admin (Admin)
Board Administrator
Username: Admin
Post Number: 187
Registered: 10-2004
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| Posted on Tuesday, May 9, 2006 - 6:42 am: |
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Our pleasure Sam. Any pictures of the build would be nice as we know we have a number of customers who are building electric karts. |
jamesrussell
Unregistered guest
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| Posted on Sunday, October 15, 2006 - 12:25 pm: |
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On your wheels page:
Wheel 10 Inch Split Steel Hub 19mm Bearng 4260-001
It states:
" See 'more product information' for the technique used on M2 for fixing this wheel to the axle. "
I am using a Mac and Safari web browser and cannot see where
this "more product information" is. I also can't find where your M2
robot is on your website. |
Admin (Admin)
Board Administrator
Username: Admin
Post Number: 286
Registered: 10-2004
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| Posted on Sunday, October 15, 2006 - 9:25 pm: |
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Hi,
Sorry, we had a broken link and the wrong text, this has been corrected. If you click on the 'More Images' button, you will see images that should help but are also repeated in this thread. M2 and M2XT are our personal robots, you can see them if you are interested at http://www.m2robot.com |
rob lewis (Rob)
Member
Username: Rob
Post Number: 2
Registered: 5-2007
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| Posted on Sunday, July 1, 2007 - 9:08 pm: |
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i also need a 5/8 axle and dont have access to a lathe. Any ideas where i can get one from.
Thanks,
Rob.... |
Admin (Admin)
Board Administrator
Username: Admin
Post Number: 519
Registered: 10-2004
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| Posted on Monday, July 2, 2007 - 9:38 pm: |
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Rob,
Imperial bar is still available but we can only purchase it in large quantities thus not making it cost effective for us to stock. As for getting it elsewhere, I'm sure it's possible to get 5/8" silver steel. Perhaps a search in google might bring something up. |
Chris (Teamtanglefoot)
Member
Username: Teamtanglefoot
Post Number: 14
Registered: 5-2007
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| Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2008 - 8:20 am: |
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Hi Paul, Just looking at attaching my axels to wheels. After failure of this last year I am looking to make this better. I am doing something similar to your first picture on this post. What size pin and type would you recommend using?. I have 16mm axle's. Cheers Chris |
Admin (Admin)
Board Administrator
Username: Admin
Post Number: 684
Registered: 10-2004
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| Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2008 - 7:38 pm: |
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Hi Chris,
A good question for combat use. 6mm hardened steel dowels would appear to be the right answer but they can be very brittle and easily shear during sudden accelerations. Silver steel could be better but one rather clever acedemic who was also a Roboteer suggested a hex key as they are not brittle but still hard. Take your choice really.
Paul |
Chris (Teamtanglefoot)
Member
Username: Teamtanglefoot
Post Number: 16
Registered: 5-2007
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| Posted on Monday, January 28, 2008 - 11:18 pm: |
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Hi Paul Many thanks for the advice, I think I'll go with the hex key. Cheers Chris |
